A mystical fairytale lies at the heart of Zuhair Murad’s FW 2022/2023 collection, “Les Arts Divinatoires”. Inspired by tarot, astrology, horoscopes and palmistry, this season Murad sought refuge in the allure of symbolism, for couture, according to the designer, is a conspirator of the cosmos and its lucky stars.
As dresses effortlessly flowed down the runway, one fact remains true, a Zuhair Murad gown attracts love, fame and fortune, and his woman is the center of attention. The collection narrated ten different tales, woven with feathers, sumptuous fabrics, embroidery in cosmic shapes, and celestial creatures.
An intricately embroidered tarot card two piece featuring a cropped jacket with feathers and a skirt opened the show, setting the tone for what was about to come — a body of ethereal garments that will have you captivated and on the edge of your seat.
The signs of the Zodiac
Designs featuring myriad embroidered eyes made several appearances during the show, for the eye is known to be the most important symbolic sensory organ. A prominent place is reserved for it throughout the collection and they are often placed on the midriff across various silhouettes. Each eye is at the forefront of the design and lies in plain sight — reaffirming what we all know, the eyes are the window to the soul, they draw benevolence and purity.
The signs of the Zodiac, with Cancer being the most prominent – it is after all the designer’s own astrological sign – feature throughout the collection, along with snakes, which in ancient types often symbolized health and vigor. Each symbol is carefully woven to cohesively complete the collection. However, it is “Queen Sun that predominates all cosmic and astrological symbols and elements, illuminating in her grandeur the celestial gowns embellished with golden threads,” according to Murad.
From wrap skirts, to Karakou jackets, bodysuits, short dresses with removable trains, to ball gowns and draped jumpsuits, this collection’s sensual appeal has something for everyone and the introductory assertion rings true once more, no matter the occasion, the grand allure of a Murad gown will always ensure its wearer is the center of attention.