FTA Prize 2022 / Jewelry: Of Women and Diamonds

After the Ready-to-Wear, Accessories, Debut Talent, Evening Wear and Guest Country nominees, it is time to dig deeper into the last category: Jewelry.

Here, we’ll discover why Lebanese Alexandra Hakim, Egyptian Fatma Mostafa, Moroccan Youssra Nichan (Dihyan)   and Dalila Barkache decided to apply to this year’s FTA Prize, and uncover everything about their relationship with fashion, their goals, loves and their plans for the future.

Who will succeed the talented Alia bin Omair, the winner of last year’s edition? A woman, for sure, but who…?

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

I was a finalist in 2020, the year that FTA happened 100% online. I really wanted to get the full, in-person experience, so I decided to try again!

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

My grandmother’s gold rings always stood out. It was the way she wore them with such poise and confidence. That’s when I first understood the power of jewelry, and the emotional connection a beautiful piece can hold.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I have always been seduced by fine art and the history of art. At school, I enjoyed making contemporary sculptures and vibrant paintings. It wasn’t until I had tried a metals workshop at Central Saint Martins that I decided to trade in my paintbrush for a blowtorch, and my clay for pieces of silver.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Azza Fahmy, the jewelry powerhouse of the Arab region. I had the opportunity to visit her studio in Cairo and her work ethic has been a source of inspiration ever since.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

Pleather.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Also pleather.

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

Anything from the Schiaparelli SS21 collection. It’s the perfect balance between playfulness and elegance, minimalism and maximalism, art and fashion, the past and the future.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

Iris Apfel, the 100-year-old fashion legend herself.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

My brand revolves around a zero-waste approach, from concept to design, to execution. I work from found materials and consumed objects, which would otherwise go to waste. I take these elements and repurpose them into timeless pieces, giving them a new life in a way that preserves every detail of the original material.  The beauty of working in metal is that it can be melted down almost endlessly so that nothing goes to waste. In that sense, the jewelry making process naturally lends itself to sustainability.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

The lack of female artisans in the jewelry and metalsmithing industry.

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

I felt it would be an opportunity to develop my brand in more ways than one. I expect this experience to give me a deeper knowledge of the fashion industry, and up-close experience of the inner workings of the industry, not only in the Arab region, but on a more global level.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

When I was a child, during my first visit to the Egyptian museum I was utterly captivated by the jewelry of the ancient Egyptians, they still amaze and inspire me to this day.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

For me, there are many motivations, one of which is that I regard jewelry making as an art in itself, from sketching to design to implementation. In addition, there’s my love for experimenting with different materials and merging them together. Working through these stages I always discover new things about myself.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

There are many inspiring Arab and international designers with amazing work and awe-inspiring success stories, but the most inspiring experiences for me are to be found in the ancient civilization and traditional jewelry from each city, such as Nubia in Aswan, or jewelry from Fallahy and Siwa in Egypt, because they stem from instinct and natural inspiration and are truly in tune with their surroundings.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

Crocs.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Uggs and those shoes with socks.

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

I would choose one of my earrings called “Royal Water Lilies” because I would feel special when wearing it.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

A lot of celebrities, but for now, Bella Hadid.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

Sustainability means a lot of things to me, starting from my consistent effort, to producing my pieces under humane working conditions, allowing each piece and everyone to take their time. Extending that, I put an emphasis on good quality that extends the longevity of the piece, and minimizing waste in both raw materials and packaging.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

The fashion industry in our region still faces many challenges, we need it to be more relevant and to support itself through dedicated events. On the other hand, there is a greater appreciation of craftsmanship, an availability of good quality materials, and support for emerging designers.

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you except from this experience?

I discovered FTA through Zyne in 2019. At that time I had not yet created Dihyan, I was working in a completely different environment. The incredible story of Zyne and its founders Zineb and Laura inspired me and made me want to jump in and follow my passion. The day Dihyan became eligible to participate in FTA I submitted my application.

Being chosen as a finalist in FTA is a dream come true. It is a great opportunity to celebrate Moroccan craftsmanship and the hard work put into Dihyan from all the parties involved in the creation of our label. It is also an amazing opportunity to take our brand to the next level.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory …) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

The first object related to fashion that dazzled me as a child, was a Joher necklace (a necklace made of pearls). I’ve never forgotten this traditional henna ceremony that my mother organized for me at the age of 7. I remember being amazed by the white pearls that belonged to her and that she passed on to me, that special moment when it was delicately placed around my neck by her soft and reassuring hands and the Negaffa. I was mesmerized by the moment when my mother’s hands delicately laid down the “Taj”, a tiara that she made for me, on my little head.  I felt like a princess with all those jewels and I remember not wanting to take them off. I have always loved jewelry, especially the Moroccan jewelry that I have always worn outside of traditional occasions.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I never had the courage to make it my career until the [Covid] confinement took place. Shortly after this was the catalyst for my passion. I realized that life was too short and that it was important to seek happiness and do what we love.  I decided at 35 years old to change my life and to start creating Moroccan jewelry pieces, to send them from my heart to the world. This was despite some important people in my life not approving. I broke free and succeeded with my call from high above. This was my breakthrough as a woman and what has given me purpose in my life. Today, the ones that thought this was a bizarre idea hold me in great esteem. I encourage all woman and humans to follow their gut and to conspire with what the universe has in hand for them. It is just never too late.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Edgardo Osario, the Creative Director of Aquazzura, who said once: “The greatest gift life can give you is to allow you to discover what you love to do. I started Aquazzura when I was years old, with no money and just a suitcase full of shoes and a head full of dreams”. Osario is one of my biggest inspirations. A man who started from humble beginnings, who followed his passion and dreams and made them big. His success, and most of all his humility, are examples that I respect highly.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

Micro trends that don’t fit the person’s true sense of style.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Low-rise jeans back in early 2000.

7/ If you were to choose one on your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

I would definitely choose an oversized black suit with a cinched waist and big buckles. For me it’s very important to be comfortable, chic and sexy in our daily outfits, and the oversized black suit with the big buckles is for me the ultimate outfit that is sophisticated while remaining simple. Besides, simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

Meryl Streep.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

For me the word sustainability refers to three aspects, social impact, economic impact and environmental impact. I think it is very important to be able to create your business while respecting and enhancing these three aspects and creating awareness about how these affect our planet. Whether on a small scale or a large scale, if each one of us were to commit to sustainability we would leave a better world for our children.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see change?

I believe that this is a delicate and controversial subject. But one thing I will say is that it would be great to see less pressure on how woman should dress in Arab countries. Both women and men should be able to choose their fashion preferences. I would like to see more freedom in the Arab fashion industry, especially for young girls.

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

The current economic situation in Lebanon, specifically after the blast in the port of Beirut, has blocked my ability to produce jewelry. This tragic situation has led me to apply to the FTA Prize.

At the moment, we are still working from Beirut. The extraordinary situation in Lebanon slowed down my production, therefore, I have recently decided to move a part of the production to Morocco, in order to simplify the process.

I will use the Prize for business development; everything from designing the next collection, to presentation, renting a studio space, and expanding my team. It would also be helpful to hire a studio manager to refine business procedures. Right now, I do most of it on my own.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

When I was ten years old, I was given an old, Berber silver ring by the grandmother of a friend. It was the first ring that I ever owned, and it had one moving part, a coin from France. I truly believe this ring set me on my path. From that moment on, I had a new awareness of jewelry, from ancient beads to modern bling, each culture bringing its own voice, I was intrigued by it all. Eventually, I realized jewelry not only gave humans expression, but each culture attaches a meaning to certain pieces, symbols of protection, or statements of marital status, for example.

Later I discovered the exceptional work of jewelry houses like René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal), Van Cleef & Arpels, René Lalique, Cartier, Raymond Templier, Wallace Chan, but also jewelry created by artists like Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Ettore Sotsass, Tony Duquette, Cesar Baldaccini, Alexandre Calder, Man Ray…

Last year, archaeologists unearthed 33 shell beads from the Bizmoune cave in Essarouia, Morocco. It is the oldest jewelry on record, and it dates back 150,000 years, and it’s only 90 minutes from my hometown!

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

My first ring, as I mentioned, but from there I saw a fashion documentary on TV when I was a teenager that blew me away, and I fell in love. Something just clicked, and I knew that I’d found my calling, specifically, I loved the work of Dries Van Noten. I love that his work is timeless and poetic, but also the way that he created unique happenings on the runway. He stopped time with his work, and it captivated me. I knew I wanted to be part of this industry.

In high school, I spent a lot of time in flea markets searching for jewelry for myself, but over time, to make money, I started selling my finds. I didn’t have a lot of money growing up, so this was a way to be able to afford vintage and designer pieces. When I was 17, I would sneak into the fashion shows, by lying to security saying that I was a reporter’s assistant and didn’t have my badge. Sometimes I made a fake email to get an invitation… and it worked!

I went to the jewelry school Haute École de Joaillerie in Paris, after graduating I planned to go to New York, but spontaneously found myself staying in Beirut after a brief holiday, because I got a great job. My experience in Beirut gave me the freedom to explore my unique vision. Right now I am studying sculpture at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Rouen.

In 2007, I had the wonderful opportunity to team up with Comme des Garçons and opened the concept store Guerrilla store +9611 in Beirut. This fruitful experience led me to launch my own brand.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Without a doubt, I would say Azzedine Alaïa. His sense of aesthetic and his unique brand, based on a particular work ethic and on profound love, deeply inspires me. The technical elements of his designs are always started and finished by his own hands. He once stated, “Je suis une petit main,” which I think says a lot about his philosophy.

His personal story is fascinating and, somehow, I sometimes feel close to his journey. He was deeply rooted in his Arabic culture even though he lived and worked in Paris. His passion and love for couture designers pushed him to collect artworks from some of the best couturiers, from Madeleine Vionnet to Cristóbal Balenciaga, or today, Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, and more. He even created a foundation that archives his collection as a way to keep records of them and allow future generations to admire them.

He sometimes even challenged common rules of the fashion industry to follow his own instinct. He, for example, decided to abandon the system of seasonal runway shows to concentrate on the finalizing of a unique collection that truly represented his vision. There is so much that could be said about this artist, but his true passion for art is probably the reason why I look up at him a lot.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

I never judge people by the way they dress. The most important thing is to be yourself and be proud of it. But if I would have one wish, it would be more about the accessibility of products that are socially and ecologically conscious. I think that the focus has to be more on the producers than the consumers. For that, research on new technology that is more ecologically-friendly is, I think, very important.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Wearing silk pajamas anywhere and anytime…. Or to be overdressed.

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

If I have to pick any piece to wear everyday for the rest of my life, it would be a Haïk, which is a traditional women’s garment worn in the Maghreb region. It’s a rectangular piece of fabric covering the whole body, 6 by 2.2 meters in length, rolled up then held at the waist by a belt and then brought back to the shoulders to be fixed by fibulae.

To be more specific, it would be a Haïk in the Pleats Please range by Issey Miyake. Made from a collaborative project between Issey Miyake and the photographer Yuriko Takagi, the project is called “Pleats Please Travel Through the Planet”. Issey Miyake’s pieces were shot with stunning images in Kenya, India, China and Morocco. It’s comfortable, timeless and it feels right in any place or occasion. He left us an amazing, important legacy and I would wear it every day.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

My list is too long, but to name a few, it would be Cher, The Wu Tang Clan, Anjelica Huston, Rihanna, Susan Sarandon, Tyler the Creator, John Waters, Cindy Sherman, Takeshi Kitano, Teresa de Keersmaeker, Bella Haddid, Mona Tougaard and Nora Attal.

But frankly, I also secretly dream of dressing His Majesty the king of Morocco Mohammed VI. He is elegant and takes care of his look, and is keen on keeping up with the latest fashion trends. Some say this reflects his openness to international designs.I love the fact that he is really into fashion by wearing a variety of outfits, some of which were untraditional, but also including formal African outfits and traditional Moroccan fashion. Some photos of the King showed him with the famous African designer Pathe Ouedraogo. The king’s modern style is inspired by hip-hop and rock stars. His clothes are marked by bright African drawings and distinctive Moroccan embroidery and I love it.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

In my opinion, “sustainability” is first the respect of the materials and also the human behind the work. From an ethical point of view, fashion can also support an age-old industry and know-how on the verge of extinction, while creating working conditions and remuneration that are more respectful of these craftsmen and preserving the environment.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

As far as I know, there is not something specific that makes me uncomfortable inside the MENA fashion industry. It’s more the fact that the talented designers of our countries are not visible enough in the international market.