FTA Prize 2022 / Accessories: Who Will Succeed Bilal Fellah?

Now that we’ve disclosed the identity of the 24 finalists of the 2022 Fashion Trust Arabia Prize, it’s time to dig a little deeper and discover exactly who they are. After the Ready-to-Wear nominees, today will be devoted to another group of talented women competing in the Accessories category: The Tunisian Duha Bukadi (Pupchen), the Sudanese Eilaf Osman (Eilaf), the Egyptian Karen Gaballa (BOADK) and the Moroccan Leila Roukni (Talel Paris).

Here, we’ll discover why they decided to apply to this year’s  FTA Prize, and uncover everything about their relationship with fashion and how they conceive and envision it.

Who will succeed Bilal Fellah (Port Tanger), the winner of last year’s edition? It’s about to get real!

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

The first time I arrived to the factory in Italy everybody was calling me “la ragazza Francese”, the French girl, just because I was introduced [to them] by Chanel, from Paris. Now they all know that I am Tunisian and they speak some Tunisian words. I wanted to send my submission to the FTA Prize this year because I always dreamt of being involved with Fashion Trust Arabia. It was in the plan since day one, I was just waiting to be able to do it. I expect to tell my story, to show my designs, to learn and to grow.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why? 

When I was a kid I used to spend the whole summer at my grandparents’ house. I never liked napping and instead I used to go to the attic where my grandmother had huge jars full of sequins and a lot of fabrics. I used to spend hours there looking at the colors and touching sequins, imagining and drawing what I could do with them. I also love the smell of fabric and sequins (yes they have a smell!), and I’ll always remember that.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I had an accident. I was stuck in a bed for a month. Then the pandemic happened. When everything seemed impossible and at the same time possible, hard times made me realize that I needed to start doing what I always dreamt of.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Azzedine Alaia and Gabrielle Chanel. Both were wild and different, but always thinking about the women they are dressing.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

Anything that makes them feel uncomfortable or insecure about themselves. People should wear everything that makes them feel comfortable and confident. Period.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Let’s call it the outfit of the day. I am not a style icon. I make a fashion faux-pas every day. I will try to bring cool clothes to Doha for the event though, don’t worry…

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

Anything Chanel! And my acid mules. I can’t afford both for the moment, though…

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

Ah the list is very long. Every hardworking girl in the movies and the music industry. I have also a secret list of my dream girls that I won’t share.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

As an architect, I am a LEED accredited professional; I was always very sensitive to the impact of architecture on the planet and I came to shoe design with that spirit: reducing the impact of the fashion industry on the planet.

I put a lot of effort into sourcing sustainable materials and thinking about sustainability differently. I realized that we lose people’s attention when we talk a lot about sustainability. So I am applying the same method I use to make my daughter eat her veggies. First, I don’t tell her it’s healthy. Second, I make the food look beautiful and desirable. It works.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

That there are not a lot of success stories that come from the region. At the same time, we Arabs are fashion enthusiasts and very important clients to many international luxury brands.

1/ What pushed you to send your application to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

As a Sudanese-American designer, I was fortunate enough to go back home to Sudan once or twice a year to spend time with my family and friends. This past year though, I spent the majority of my time working in Sudan with an art center that focuses on the preservation of Sudanese cultural heritage by training women from disadvantaged backgrounds in traditional craftsmanship skills. Doing this work really helped me connect deeply with different Sudanese cultural work and it inspired the collection that I will be presenting in Doha. I wanted a chance to show this collection on a global stage that would understand and celebrate Sudanese culture and art.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

I know that everyone says this about their mother… but I truly have the most beautiful woman in the world as a mom. From her magnetic beauty to her affectionate charisma, my mother dazzled me from my earliest memory. I grew up with a young mother and watching her match her sparkling evening wear of a Sudanese toubs (similar to a sari) with her clutch and shoes was like watching a ceremonial tradition. Her juxtaposition of glam and effortlessly chic stature inspires me until this very moment.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I was interning at the Emilio Pucci heritage house and started thinking about the concept of what a Sudanese heritage fashion house would look like… and there it began.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Omer Asim, the 2020 FTA Prize winner in the Ready-to-Wear category, inspired me to continue designing and building my brand with his kind words of encouragement. As a designer, his avant-garde approach to fashion and his way of gently combining his Sudanese heritage and educational background as an architect is incredible.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

I don’t like capri pants but I don’t think anyone is really wearing those anymore, right?

6/ What was your worst fashion faux pas?

I used to wear heels when I would ride my bike around university campus. While I’m not sure if it was a fashion faux-pas, it garnered some weird stares around campus!

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear everyday for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

I would wear my Medani bag every day! It is directional, sparks a conversation every time I wear it, and really captures the contemporary Sudanese juxtaposition I try to design! I would pair it with high-waisted pleated pants, my favorite Loewe cotton shirt, and loafers.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

Amal Clooney! A true woman in motion!

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

For me and my brand, sustainability means using my heritage’s traditional techniques that inherently obey the laws of nature because they express a tribe’s connection to nature. For example, when working with basket weaving, we are using natural palm fronds, natural flowers and their seasonality for the dyes, and slow handcraftsmanship that does not add toxins to the environment.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

Like in most fashion industries, the MENA fashion industry struggles with issues of colorism and representation. The MENA fashion industry promotes the ongoing cycle of systemic racism and exuberant shows of wealth at the cost of marginalizing entire communities of color and looks to Western standards of beauty for approval. Of course, I would like to see societal change of centralizing the marginalized communities that make up the backbone of the MENA countries and their economies. I would like to see rights given to migrant workers and I would like to see active dispelling of colorism in fashion publications and marketing.

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

As an emerging designer, I would always keep my eyes on all key fashion events happening in the world and specifically in the Middle East, and so I’ve been following FTA very closely since its beginning in 2019 and waiting for the right opportunity to participate. Our main aim in participating is to gain international exposure and branding awareness in the Middle East and the world, we believe in the high quality and value of our products, and we want to extend these visions to as many people as possible.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

There isn’t a specific object as far as I remember, but since I was little, I was obsessed with the Egyptian tooled leather bags as I was quite influenced by our heritage and how the ancient Egyptians excelled in craftmanship.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I was born and raised in my early childhood years in Milan, where I was constantly surrounded by elegant fashion and so it grew my keen eye for detail and styling. However, I actually wanted to be an architect and proceeded to study architecture in Switzerland where I’ve been exposed to all kinds of natural materials and in particular, wood. This is when I realized I wanted to combine my two main interests somehow, which was how BOADK was born, and I found creating these pieces outgrew the passion for either topic individually.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

Simon Porte Jacquemus. His designs are a mix of “wearable” and “conceptual” and I see that this is fundamental, because being true to the market is a must.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

If I must choose, I would say Crocs. Comfort doesn’t have to mean bulky and unflattering, there are many brands that were able to offer their customers a more comfortable fit without forsaking style, but I would say Crocs have unfortunately not mastered this skill yet, in my opinion.

6/ What was your worst fashion faux pas?

Personally, I would have to say it was the PJ suits, it was quite astonishing to see that the same runways that would show a Chanel classic suit and YSL’s ‘Le Smoking Tuxedo’ were also showcasing a PJ set as fashion’s next big thing.

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

Oversized suits and blazers are an obsession of mine, if I must choose one, it would be Jacquemus blazers! I would wear them every day; they are classy and elegant while being simple and minimal, which is a perfect reflection of my personal style. You can almost never go wrong styling one of his blazers into a monochrome outfit.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

If I’m going to allow my mind to run wild, I would love to have the opportunity to dress Anne Hathaway, Cara Delevingne and Rihanna, that would be an absolute pleasure.

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

“Sustainably” means meeting our own needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. We are a slow fashion brand, and we pride ourselves on how sustainable our bags are. In BOADK, this is mainly reflected in 3 major aspects:

1: Raw Material. All our bags have been produced from reclaimed wood from olive trees that have been cleared from local farmland. They are then mixed with EcoPox which is a safe, environmentally friendly, plant-based epoxy made from annually renewable resources, we’ve used it specifically to contribute positively to the environment and reduce BOADK’s carbon footprint.  This mix is also used to maintain the reclaimed wood and to show its beauty through epoxy.

2: Packaging.Our packaging is easy to recycle, safe for the environment, plastic-free, and made from recycled materials like paper and craft which also has a minimal impact on energy consumption.

3: Production.We are a slow fashion brand, which means our contribution to sustainability is reflected in how BOADK is locally sourced and produced. We produce a maximum of 5 to 10 pieces per design and then rely on a make-to-order approach to reduce unnecessary production. Finally, BOADK releases one big collection per year and it’s usually a permanent, season-less collection that can be worn all year long. Our timeless masterpieces are made to last!

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

What makes me uncomfortable is basically our lack of awareness of the slow fashion concept, we still prefer volatile fashion trends and quantity over quality. Our over stimulated palates are being overpowered by fast trends that we don’t appreciate conscious, timeless pieces.

1/ What pushed you to send in your submission to this year’s FTA Prize? What do you expect from this experience?

What pushed me to take part in this competition was the affinity I felt with the values of Fashion Trust Arabia. Giving so much importance to supporting the MENA region’s creative forces speaks to me and touches me. This is also a challenge for myself, as this is the first time I apply for such a big competition. I expect from this journey a human experience, a lot of meetings and exchanges with the other designers and people from the industry.

2/ What was the first object related to fashion (a piece of clothing, jewelry, an accessory…) that dazzled you when you were a kid, and why?

I have a lot of memories of my mother sewing for me when I was a child, she used to sew a lot and make me custom pieces. That’s how it started… And I have always loved handbags. Whenever I had some money to treat myself, I preferred to invest in a beautiful accessory, rather than clothes. A bag can tell so much about your personality and what you want to express about yourself.

3/ What was the trigger that made you realize that you wanted to be a fashion designer and nothing else?

I’ve always wanted to work in the fashion industry. I still remember being in my room as a little girl and dreaming of going to work in big Parisian fashion houses. The stimulus was after my time in business school, when a big entertainment company offered me a job that I could not refuse, safe and lucrative, that I declined it to try to make it into fashion. I couldn’t imagine myself doing anything else.

4/ Which fashion designer, Arab or international, inspired you, and why?

I greatly admire Martin Margiela, avant-garde and unconventional. I like the way he breaks the rules and codes of fashion, transforming, reinterpreting and deconstructing classic wardrobe pieces, often with explicit humor and irony. Also, I love that he had never wanted to be a public figure, I love his humility and his discretion; that’s a common point with Azzedine Alaia, in addition to his very well-known talent. I am very curious to see how the house will evolve with the arrival of Pieter Mulier as the new Artistic Director.

5/ What is the one thing you wish people would stop wearing?

I don’t care much about how other people look. As long as they feel true themselves and happy, the vibe is good!

6/ What was your worst fashion faux-pas?

Trends come and go, like brows for instance: they can instantly date a photo! True that they are now coming back in a trendy way, but believe me, the 2000’s also had their taboo looks!

7/ If you were to choose one of your looks, or that of any other designer, to wear every day for the rest of your life, what would it be, and why?

It would probably be a t-shirt, wide pants and a pair of sneakers! The most important thing to me is to feel comfortable.

8/ Who do you dream of dressing?

I would have liked my bags to be the starting point of inspiration for an architect such as Zaha Hadid. I am a big fan of her work and designs!

9/ What does the word “sustainability” mean to you?

As long as you know where your product comes from and you have traceability, done in a proper way, for me, it’s sustainable. Leather, for example, comes from a natural upcycling process as it comes from the meat industry and in that sense it’s sustainable. It is also important that the tanning processes are compliant with environmental standards.

10/ What is something that makes you uncomfortable in the MENA fashion industry and that you would like to see changed?

I think that the MENA fashion industry is not highlighted enough and, thanks to this kind of event, that involves fashion people from all over the world, we can shed light on a culture that is too set apart. We are lucky to hold an extremely rich and diversified cultural heritage, rooted for several thousand years and I’m proud to be a part of it.