Between the launch of Milan Fashion Week on February 22 and the last day of Paris Fashion Week on March 8, fashion went through an existential crisis, going so far as to question its own relevance in an upside-down world. The Milan week began with the euphoria of the end of the Covid pandemic being announced, and many labels paraded for the first time in two years. On February 24, the day the Russian military campaign against Ukraine was launched, this short lived celebration was already weighed down by the anguish that was spreading around the world. Giorgio Armani, whose presentation took place that day, asked for the music to be muted.
On the first day of the Parisian presentations, Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, issued a press release in which he declared: “The war has brutally broken out in Europe and is plunging the Ukrainian people into fear and pain”. He called for everyone “to live the parades of the days to come with the gravity which is essential in these dark hours”. However, the fashion industry, despite being ultra-sensitive to the times, had above all anticipated the return of parties and the joy of visiting public places, as shown by Weinsanto’s crazy parade, with its feathers galore and cabaret spirit.
Saab: “A Fearless Grace”
Feminism, once again honored on the eve of International Women’s Day, which fell on the last day of the Paris fashion shows, was one of the most common themes, particularly at Elie Saab and Christian Dior.
The Lebanese couturier titled his collection “A Fearless Grace” in homage to an imaginary muse, who dares rebel in a glam-grunge mode, gentle and determined at the same time. “Elaborately embroidered sequin bomber jackets in floral-inspired motifs add a splash of flare to sophisticated daywear and a rush of wild for a night out. Feathers softly whisper throughout, as fine accents on organically fanning knit wear or whimsical embellishments on quilted monogram down coats. Monochromatic vertical sequins inundate evening wear, with shimmers of purples and greens intertwining with embroidered tulle for loud looks that scream with attitude,” says the house’s note of intent.