Style is innovation, rather than disruption, according to Rabih Kayrouz, the Lebanese couturier who season after season presents sublime collections where couture craft sits alongside ready-to-wear. Maison Rabih Kayrouz has just presented their FW 2022/2023 collection, alongside their SS 2023 ready-to-wear collection in an intimate Parisian setting, where a mini orchestra played live in the background as zaatar canapés were enjoyed by guests, because what’s more Lebanese than zaatar? A reminder that no matter the distance, a taste of home will always be well received.
His collections explore movement, power and vibrancy, and Kayrouz’s garments are fluid and pure. From the intricate construction to the experimental patterns, the Lebanese couturier reimagines the Maison’s codes in a contemporary style, while new archetypes arrive to enhance its story. A Kayrouz woman buys couture for her everyday life, “I don’t want to imagine a woman different from what she is; I don’t want to disguise her, or constrain her,” he says. Her persona is reaffirmed in who she is, rather than the abstract idea of who and where she should be.
As couture and ready-to-wear sat next to one another at the presentation at 8 Rue Murillo , one couldn’t help but admire how, although different, both collections shared the same language. From ready-to-wear pieces that were given an haute couture twist, to haute couture garments that, while simple, are larger than life, Kayrouz always remains faithful to his style.
The stand out couture piece this season was a voluminous evening gown in black taffeta, featuring a halter neck and exposed back. It was, much like the rest of the collection, accompanied with a ready-to-wear version, as Kayrouz’s vision for couture is light and accessible.
The Kayrouz woman this season is elegant, free and almost defiant. Her clothes are effortlessly wrapped around her figure, freeing her body. From pea jackets, to trench coats and shorts, and the MRK staple, the white shirt, each garment gives her room and freedom.
The textures are deep, solid and shimmering fabrics blend with matte, while cool wool is mixed with jersey. The primary colors are reminiscent of the South, and palettes of blues, yellows, red and oranges dominated the collection. Each garment transports you to a day on the Riviera sat tanning while gazing at wispy blue skies. To be free, hopeful of a better tomorrow and at ease is all we can wish for right now.